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Tuesday Night is Hat Night
Me and my Dad celebrating Hat Night at Ceviche in Clearwater.
About 3 years ago Tuesday nights were established as a date night with my Dad, also referred to as Hat Night. Thanks to our slight obsession with hats (not to be confused with caps) we decided one night out of the week was needed to explore fine wine, scrumptious food, and show off our hat collection in the greater Tampa Bay area. Last night my Dad and I ventured out to the new Ceviche in Clearwater on Gulf to Bay. We were taken back by the Latin acoustic rhythms of Sombras Flamencas, the table top covered with delicious tapas from the $4 Tapas Tuesday menu, and the perfect summer rosé.
2009 Muga Rosado (Rioja, Spain) $11.99
(60% garnacha, 30% viura and 10% tempranillo) Vivid pink. Complex, highly aromatic bouquet of pink grapefruit, strawberry, rhubarb and white flowers, with a strong mineral undertone. Bright, racy red berry flavors are given a tangy edge by citrus zest and white pepper, with the mineral quality adding lift and cut. Finishes suave, spicy and long, with excellent thrust. (Fine Estates from Spain Dedham MA) 90 points Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Jul 10, 2010
Moscato warning: Beware the 91 pt sting
2008 Botani $13.99
No bug spray needed, just a caution that if you think you’re immune to sweeter grapes, stay away from this varietal steadily invading American shelves. You could be infected with a new love.
The more open minded (or empty headed) are already there, especially guys like me, a softy on sweeties, a champion of underdog grapes and a partisan of unsung regions.
Moscato may be the oldest grape with many forms and names, including a world of dessert wines and sweet sparkless but it is the unfortified version, sweet, not-o and dry that is popping up in California, Spain and Australia. Sutter Home, Barefeoot Cellars, Gallo and its new everyday brand Tisdale, all moscatos with peachy aromas and modest residual sugar.
Yet moscatos can be more than a cheap thrill, as any fan of the muscat canellli in 2008 Conundrum ($18.99) knows. The most stunning example of new-school moscato comes from no less than Jorge Ordonez the great Spanish importer, explorer and champion who is now making a wine of his own, a moscato farmed organically and vinifed sec on Ordonez’s home turf in the Málaga sierras.
More important its nose is full of flowers, honey and tropical fruit but the taste has fewer calories. Jorge’s 2008 Botani (90WA, $13.99) is dry crisp, with intense fruit, a perfect Florida refresher and a boon companion for seafood.
Drinking on the wine-dark sea Capt. Jack Aubrey, sommelier
I was sailing off the Breton coast to blockade Napoleon’s ship one night, courtesy of Patrick O’Brien, the author of the best-selling Jack Aubrey series of erudite maritime novels, when wine came flooding in to my surprise.
2006 Clos Erasmus $199.99
Like many fans, I turn to O’Brien for this account of shipboard life and naval tradition, dining included, as well as historical derring-do. The books cover a lot since Aubrey is a violinist and astronomer as well as a naval hero; his companion, Stephen Maturin is the ship’s surgeon, botanist and intelligence agent.
As it happened, Aubrey had suffered a dismal formal dinner on the flagship where the wine was scant and execrable, another reason to dislike the admiral: he was the kind of man who took no pleasure in wine and thought those who did were only impressed by label and price. If they saw neither, they wouldn’t know the difference.
The captain knew, as you and I know, that good wine and bad are very different no matter the label or price. But his spirits were restored later on his own ship, where he was invited to dinner with his officers of better taste and wine is in the care of his friend. The doctor decides the fresh claret delivered to the ship is not ready. Instead he pulls from the cellar a very fine old…
Priorato!
The perfect choice and perhaps expected. The Maturin character is part Irish, part Catalan.
If it had been our ship, it might be the 2006 Clos Erasmus (97WA, $199.99).
Old vine white wine? Shaya Verdelho delivers
2009 Bodegas Shaya Verdejo Old Vines
In my search for white wines with new charms and extra character, I often return to Planet V, a peachy place full of verdejo, viura, viognier and vermentino.
In Rueda a Spanish corner of V, “verdejo” has been in the vineyards a long time, at least 75 years for these grapes (and more than 100 for some of them). Bodegas Shaya Verdejo Old Vines (91 pts WA, $13.99) treats them the old-fashioned way too, leaving them on the lees and barrel fermenting them.
The wine that emerges is packed with aroma and lusciously full and creamy in the mouth, peach and mango with hints of vanilla and nutmeg from the oak, yet it’s still crisp and refreshing .
Summer Martin, our Spanish diva, says it demands ceviche. Agreed.
I wouldn’t turn down fried chicken or pad Thai either.
The figs are coming, The figs are coming
2008 Alvear Pedro Ximenez de Anada
The humble fig, green, brown or blue-black , is one of nature’s most luscious fruits, a wine critic’s favorite descriptor - and a rare sight in the grocery. But their time is coming; already showing up in mid July and increasing through August. They make for the simplest summer meals as nibbles, salads or DIY designer pizza, fig and blue cheese, fig and prosciutto, fig and bacon, fig and roast pork (now that could be a very special Cuban sandwich).
Figs are rich, sweet and spicy, so what to drink? I’d start light with a cold Chenin Blanc, Riesling, or for a grander affair, a Sauternes or other sweet Semillon. For reds, rosé, Beaujolais, and a light Pinot Noir. If it’s a heartier meal like duck breast with figs — I’d try a Shiraz.
No figs yet? Then reach for a Pedro Ximenez sherry, it’s like fig newton in a bottle. My favorite is actually not from Jerez proper but the 2008 Alvear PX de Anada ($17.99) and a 92 in my book. It’s liquid amber, toffee, caramel, coffee, vanilla, balsamic— and figs by the bushel.
2008 Botani (Sierras de Malaga, Spain)
2008 Botani 12.99
Ever get tired of the same old white wine? I know I do. Its Chardonnay this, Sauvignon Blanc that… Well the 2008 Botani is not only different, but its terrific. It is a 100% dry Moscatel from Malaga, Spain (rated 91 points by Parker btw). It is the perfect picnic white with aromas of an exotic bouquet of wild flowers wafting from the glass. It is very fresh, rich and fruity with notes of citrus. To top it off, its completely hand harvested and organic, not to mention a wine from Jorge Ordonez (which pretty much guarantees its greatness). Perfect for summertime sipping.
90 Points, Summer Martin
Staff Selection, August 2010
2005 Ramon Bilbao Tempranillo Crianza (Rioja, Spain)
2005 Ramon Bilbao Tempranillo Crianza
Quality Rioja, well aged, at a remarkable price. Ripe, rich and thick with cherry plum jam and grown-up edges of tobacco, chocolate, smoke and oak. Fire up the grill and sit back.
‘This plush, modern red frames black cherry jam flavors with tobacco and dark chocolate notes. Thick and juicy, with well-integrated tannins and a clean finish. Drink now through 2010.” 88 points – Wine Spectator, June 30, 2008
“For a large-production Rioja, this sings the proper notes and should please almost anyone with a taste for Spanish red wines. It’s violet in color, indicating good ripeness. The nose is concentrated and likable, with solid berry and plum fruit to back it up. Round, pleasant and with a touch of oaky vanilla on the finish. Drink now.” 88 points – Wine Enthusiast, August 1, 2008
2008 Emilio Moro Resalso (Ribera del Duero, Spain)
2008 Bodegas Emilio Moro Resalso (Ribera del Duero) 11.99
In February, David Espinar, Winery Director for Bodegas Emilio Moro was here in Tarpon Springs to conduct a dinner with B-21. The #1 selling wine that evening was Emilio Moro’s value-priced 2007 Resalso! Why? It’s a great wine that is affordable and ready to drink. We quickly sold out of the 2007 but just received the already-well-reviewed 2008. Both Steve Rayman and I tasted the 2008 and we agree; it’s rockin’! Made with 100% Tempranillo (or Tinta del Pais), its has great black fruit aromas which lead to a medium to full bodied wine with intense blackberry fruits and hints of dark chocolate espresso beans. ¡Delicioso!
90 Points, Summer Martin
Staff Selection, July 2010
Additional Score: 90 Points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
Instant wine tasting in a box: Including a sweet surprise
I threw my own wine tasting last week for a couple dozen wine lovers and it was remarkably easy thanks to B-21’s new website.
You may have hosted one large or small over the years, for a small wine dinner group, a book club or a service group. It’s your turn and the subject is Washington reds, or Burgundy whites, or a zinfest mania. The B-21 search engine makes picking a breeze.
My tasting was for friends at church, informal and with a tight budget. I wanted to show the range of Spanish regions, types and varietals: I needed a cava for welcoming, a couple of whites, a flight of reds and a sherry.
With the search engine I plugged in Spain, my price range and a varietal or region. Then I asked for scores.
N.V. Alvear Solera Cream Sherry (Spain) 13.99
That narrowed my choices easily. Came up with some great high scores for easy money.
It worked. My guests got a distinct taste of Verdejo from Con Class, and were fiercely divided between that and an albarino.
The Cristalino sparkling brut rose was a bright star (in honor of Tampa‘s Asturianos we also had a hard apple sidra which drew applause). So too was Ramon Bilbao Tempranillo, against very drinkable mourvedre and garnacha. The smooth class and breeding of Rioja showed easily even at this low price point.
Biggest hit for me and most of the tasters was… a cream sherry.
Make that a Montilla-Morilles from a few miles away, but the key is the name Alvear on the label. Alvear makes exceptional wines in the sherry tradition and their solera are full of great juice without the expense of being in Jerez.
Yet Alvear makes finos, amontillados and the lush 1927 Pedro Ximenez that always win 90s from the Big Boys. The cream sherry got a 95 from Parker and sells for $13.99. That might be a record.
The cream is all PX grapes, turned to lovely nutty caramel in an unctuous drink. This is not a dessrt wine. It’s all the dessert you need.
What were we drinking? With Asian pork chop
2008 Garnacha de Fuego (Calatayud, Spain) $6.99
It’s still just me bach’ing in the kitchen so I treated myself to a thick pork chop, dusted it with cinnamon, clove, curry and ginger, and grilled it on the stove top with garlic onions and baby bok choy on the side. Asian on the manly side, not particularly delicate but surprisingly fiery.
Fight fire with Garnacha de Fuego especially in the Year of Grenache. That’s the Catalan bargain in the flaming bottle. This deep purple Grenache has the weight to go with grilled edge, dark cherries that dance with the the fatty pork and plenty of pepper to match the seasoning.
Wine Advocate says 89 pts. B-21 says $6.99.
That’s a fire sale.