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2007: Oh what a lovely year in the southern Rhone with Andre Brunel
2007 Andre Brunel Chateauneuf du Pape Les Cailloux 39.99
Especially in the hands of Andre Brunel, one of the great champions of Grenache and a true master of Chateauneuf du Pape, hallowed by both Mess. Parker and Bielletti.
His CdPs from 2007 are remarkable and at great prices. The Les Cailloux ($39.99) with a bushel of red fruits flowers and spices in sleek elixir, won a 93 from Tanzer.
The triumph is the 2007 Les Cailloux Cuvee Centenaire ($199.99) which Brunel makes from 120 year old vines and only in rare vintages. Here‘s a taste of Parker‘s 96-pt swoon: “precocious, sexy plum, black currant, and sweet cherry notes intermixed with some floral hints, licorice, and garrigue. It is dense, full-bodied, much more supple and silky-textured than the 2005 or 2001″.
For the rest of us, Brunel gives a best-buy taste of this vintage’s deep black fruit and earthy licorice in the 2007 Andre Brunel Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Sommelongue ($12.99).
And for something completely different, a Rhone white that’s just as rare and rich, try Brunel’s 2007 Domaine de la Becassonne Cotes du Rhone blanc ($14.99). “It has not been since the mid to early 80′s that I have tasted “old school” whites from the Rhone like this; enormous wines with 40-weight viscosity, rich and ripe tropical mélange mixed with honey and nuts…wow”, to quote Robert “92 pt” Sprentall.
He‘s right. We should love the Rhone for its whites as well: They showed me the Third Way to life after sauv blanc and chardonnay.
- Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler
The year of Grenache; Make that La Granacha
La Granacha Signargues Cotes du Rhone VV - $13.99
Don’t know where this spelling came, but no quibbles about the authenticity of the 2007 La Granacha from Signargues. This is genuine old school Grenache, 100 percent, all old vines, unfiltered and organic soil. This is from one of the premier villages of the Cotes du Rhone Villages but the wine was hidden in the bottles of fancier labels until Eric Solomon rescued it.
The wine is full-one Grenache from the earthy nose on, cherries, licorice, pepper and spice, wrapped in a deep red coat on a sturdy frame with a long finish. Why go all the way to Chateauneuf du Pape when you can hang out in this lovely Rhone village for a baguette sandwich and stay for roast lamb.
One of the best tastes of the Southern Rhone – Parker says 91 – and it’s only $13.99.
- Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler
Ride on the wild side with Vacqueyras
“Get to know me”, Jon Lovitt used to say on SNL. I’m glad the French promotional arm of the Cotes Rhone trade organization is making a similar case for this commune not far from Chateauneuf -du-Pape. Big ads in the New York Times and elsewhere dress Vacqueyras in a denim farm jacket and black tie, suggesting it suits all occasions.
If the pronunciation stumps you, think of the vaqueros who rode into Western movies from old Mexico whooping it up. Mais oui, Vacqueyras is very French, in the southern Rhone Valley in the highlands of Provence.
I would have missed it myself were it not for pals George and Janet who have lived in Paris long enough to know that the best wines are bought by the case from small wineries on the way to and from weekends in the country. Their favorite was in Vacqueyras, mine too.
2007 Perrin Vacqueyras Les Christins (on pre-order for $23.99 while supplies last)
Like its famous neighbor, Vacqueyras makes great robust red blends and has an embossed shield on its bottles. Its other neighbor Gigondas, home to our dear friends at St. Cosme, is better known but Vacqueyras has achieved its own AOC status and stands on its own well above the standard CdR.
In lower prices it is more affordable and yet like los vaqueros, joyously informal. The best however bowl over the critics; the results are rich, supple and full of jammy flavors as thick as licorice and yet gentle tannins. For a splurge, get the 2005 Cuvee Lopy from Domaine de Sang des Cailloux ($49.95) or pre-order the 2007 vintage from Perrin et Fils Les Christins($23.99 on pre-order for a limited time, arriving in late December.)
The options from the south of France keep growing. Besides the grander appellations of Vacqueyras and Gigondas and many forms of CdR, we’re just getting a taste of the delish easy quaffers of Cotes de Luberon and Cotes de Ventoux.
France we hardly knew ye.
Organic, schmorganic: It’s nothing new at Beaucastel
Perrin grandpere’s reasons were straightforward, “He wanted to have the best fruit he could. That’s the way to make the best wine. Exactly. It’s as simple as that,” said Mathieu.
Well, not so simple in Chateauneuf du Pape, for Perrin wanted all 13 permitted grapes at their varietal best, from Syrah down to Picpoul and Vaccarese. You might only use 1 percent in the mix, but that small drop must be, say Picpoul, at its best.
2007 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel (Paso Robles) - 95-97 Points, by Robert Parker's Wine Advaocate. ($49.99)
Most of these old grapes are no longer common and need to be tended carefully. Consider the winemaker’s crucial decision every year of the right time to start picking. At Beaucastel, that decision has to be made 13 times. “It’s a challenge,” Perrin said, “that’s why most people don’t grow them all.”
He’s glad the New World is planting Rhone grapes, including Paso Robles where the Perrins are involved in Tablas Creek. “You can make good wine every where in the world. The technology is easy,” he says by making wine that reflects the local terroir through those grape varieties. “You can only make Beaucastel here,” with the right mix of stony ground and chalk and the special rhythm of the temperatures in that patch of southern France.
Btw, the good vintages just keep coming, and Perrin notes that the 2009 vintage now in the very early stages looks to be the same classic as 2006.
Perrin’s Tour de Rhone by fork not bike
Mathieu Perrin of Perrin & Fils
The parade of wine superstars never stops. This week Matthieu Perrin of the new generation of Perrins took B-21 fanciers at Currents restaurant in Tarpon Springs on a grand three-course, three flight tour of the southern Rhone. It’s the home country of Perrin & Fils and the grand Beaucastel.
For starters, the group wheeled their way through the simple Cotes of 2007, CdR ($9.99) then Cotes du Rhone Villages ($10.49), and the Perrin’s Nature ($10.49) a GSM which is certified organic as well as the family’s own biodynamic principles. Best food match of the appetizers was just as earthy – bruschetta with mushrooms, thyme and goat cheese.
2007 Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape ($79.99)
More exciting was the roast pork-fueled middle stage through the Perrin’s favorite villages, Vacqueyras and Gigondas (mine too) and the far northerly commune of Vinsobres. Heckuva name for a place that is #89 on the Top 100. It is a luscious blend of Syrah and Grenache, but I think the licorice and pepper of that latter show best. Maybe the name scares people off, it’s still a bargain at $19.99.
The climax was Chateau Beaucastel CDP itself from the last two fabulous vintages (2006 and 2007). Beaucastel follows the old 13-grape step because it works, making a well-structured wine that is richly complex in flavors. More so in 2006, a voluptuously thick, dense wine, and at Currents a taste of the even more sumptuous 2007; best southern Rhone year in a decade.
2007 Tablas Creek Cotes de Tablas Rouge (Paso Robles, California)
Rein in the Rhone Rangers to let the elegant grand marshal parade by. This is thoroughbred Rhone, bright with cherries berries and peppers yet with smooth, silky texture Burgundians would envy. No thorns or brambles, but the grapes could not be more French, brought direct from Chateau de Beaucastel and carefully raised on Paso dirt and sun. Heavy Grenache,with Syrah, Mourvedre and a rare touch of peppery Counoise. It has a modest body, shiny color like a rare steak just off the grill – and flavor to fit that steak and stouter fare. Robert Haas and the Beaucastel Perrins have bottled exceptional polish at this price and give you a whiff of Esprit, their masterful California Chateauneuf in the USA.
2007 Tablas Creek Cotes de Tablas Rouge (Paso Robles, California) ($19.99)
- 91 Points, Chris Sherman, Email: Chris@b-21.com