B-21's B-Blog

Horror on the Mosel: A bridge too far along?

Earth moving equipment is in place to begin the approaches planned for a massive mile long bridge at Urzig not far from Bernkastel and the wine world is already shaking.

Many German wine makers, locals and environmentalist say the four lane bridge flying between the hillsides and over the river will disrupt natural runoff and air current and add large amounts of salt, gas fumes and other pollutants to the 2000 year old wine scape.

Manfred Prum of J.J. Prum says “This giant, grotesque would irreversibly deface the beautiful viticulture landscape of the Middle Mosel.” Markus Molitor says the bridge will hit “precisely (at) some of the rare Grosse Lagen vineyards or the Mosel. ”

Ernst Loosen, has weighed in against the bridge, so have wine writers. Jancis Robinson calls it madness and Hugh Johnson says the “motorway on stilts” threatens vineyard areas between Bernkastel and Erden that are “the first ones I would save.”

There is another side, including some winemakers who support the bridge and new highway to connect the region with the low countries, and others who are resigned, saying that new protests are five years too late.

Perhaps not, German elections are coming and finances are strained throughout Europe.

Aesthetically, the bridge so tall, so long and so plain, lacks the lightness and style of great Rieslings — and great bridges. It’s no Sunshine Skyway. And I imagine when it’s built it will need scenic overlooks mid-span for Kodak moments looking at the valley that once was.

I won’t say that this is a last chance for these great vineyards, but if you want to taste what the fuss is all about, B21 has fine examples on hand. From the great 2005 vintage, try Molitor’s Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese, a 97 pointer for $39.99, or J.J. Prum’s for $34.99. If you’re not already a fan of Loosen, try his 2008 Dr. L ($11.99).

I think you’ll agree that they have something special. They’ll appreciate your support.

- Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler

Tags: german wines, germany, riesling, wine news

Burgunder rising

German wine , it’s not all white. You knew that, you say but you’re still confused? 

Once limited local oddities, reds of Germany and Austria, especially pinot noir, have boomed in production and promotion. While pinot has always been something of a cool climate red, warming climates has allowed it to move farther north and ripen better; plus viticulturalists have bred, rescued and purified other grape strain.  More than a third of German vineyards now bear red .

 Media reception is warmer too judging from Eric Asimov’s report of a wine dinner with 19 Spatburgunders  at the Austrian restaurant Seasonal in Manhattan in the NYT.

 For those who have learned the infinite parsing of Riesling in Germanic hands, red wines are a different matter. Many areas, old and new ,and a bigger range of grapes. One clue, when seeking g red in German wine terms, think  blau (blue or black grapes) and rot (red but a poor word choice).

 So here’s a clue to the German names of varietals you’ll find on bottles from Mitteleuropa (and from other chilly climates around the world seeking grapes with flavor and hardiness):

Blauer Portugieser: No one knows if it has roots in Oporto, but it makes good  roses and reds from dull to claret. Get a good taste of it from the 2007 Kallstadt ($9.99).  

Blaufrankisch, aka Lemberger:  Rich, spicy reds grown widely in eastern Europe and occasionally in the U.S. Northwest.  From the red hot red wine center of Wurttemberg in the Mosel, B-21 sought out the 2007 Grafen Neipperg which shows how it’s done well ($15.99).  

Dornfelder: Verystrong, fruity and good texture and a good grower, but still second to spatburgunder.  Look to Rheinhessen producers like Valckenberg’s 2008 ($9.99).  

Sankt Laurent:  Probably related to pinot noir, good aroma and easier to grow.  

Spatburgunder:  German for pinot noir and the most heavily planted. B-21 has two from Baden under $15 and a rare treat found by B-21, the rave-winning 2005 Huber Malterninger ($59.99) one of Germany’s best .  

Zweigelt:  A cross of Blaufrankisch and Sankt Laurent, most popular in Austria and also grown in Canada.

- Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler

Tags: Chris Sherman, german wines, germany