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Horror on the Mosel: A bridge too far along?
Earth moving equipment is in place to begin the approaches planned for a massive mile long bridge at Urzig not far from Bernkastel and the wine world is already shaking.
Many German wine makers, locals and environmentalist say the four lane bridge flying between the hillsides and over the river will disrupt natural runoff and air current and add large amounts of salt, gas fumes and other pollutants to the 2000 year old wine scape.
Manfred Prum of J.J. Prum says “This giant, grotesque would irreversibly deface the beautiful viticulture landscape of the Middle Mosel.” Markus Molitor says the bridge will hit “precisely (at) some of the rare Grosse Lagen vineyards or the Mosel. ”
Ernst Loosen, has weighed in against the bridge, so have wine writers. Jancis Robinson calls it madness and Hugh Johnson says the “motorway on stilts” threatens vineyard areas between Bernkastel and Erden that are “the first ones I would save.”
There is another side, including some winemakers who support the bridge and new highway to connect the region with the low countries, and others who are resigned, saying that new protests are five years too late.
Perhaps not, German elections are coming and finances are strained throughout Europe.
2005 Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ** $39.99
Aesthetically, the bridge so tall, so long and so plain, lacks the lightness and style of great Rieslings — and great bridges. It’s no Sunshine Skyway. And I imagine when it’s built it will need scenic overlooks mid-span for Kodak moments looking at the valley that once was.
I won’t say that this is a last chance for these great vineyards, but if you want to taste what the fuss is all about, B21 has fine examples on hand. From the great 2005 vintage, try Molitor’s Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese, a 97 pointer for $39.99, or J.J. Prum’s for $34.99. If you’re not already a fan of Loosen, try his 2008 Dr. L ($11.99).
I think you’ll agree that they have something special. They’ll appreciate your support.
- Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler
Burgunder rising
German wine , it’s not all white. You knew that, you say but you’re still confused?
Once limited local oddities, reds of Germany and Austria, especially pinot noir, have boomed in production and promotion. While pinot has always been something of a cool climate red, warming climates has allowed it to move farther north and ripen better; plus viticulturalists have bred, rescued and purified other grape strain. More than a third of German vineyards now bear red .
Media reception is warmer too judging from Eric Asimov’s report of a wine dinner with 19 Spatburgunders at the Austrian restaurant Seasonal in Manhattan in the NYT.
For those who have learned the infinite parsing of Riesling in Germanic hands, red wines are a different matter. Many areas, old and new ,and a bigger range of grapes. One clue, when seeking g red in German wine terms, think blau (blue or black grapes) and rot (red but a poor word choice).
So here’s a clue to the German names of varietals you’ll find on bottles from Mitteleuropa (and from other chilly climates around the world seeking grapes with flavor and hardiness):
2008 P. J. Valckenberg Dornfelder - 9.99 (8.99 by the case!)
Blauer Portugieser: No one knows if it has roots in Oporto, but it makes good roses and reds from dull to claret. Get a good taste of it from the 2007 Kallstadt ($9.99).
Blaufrankisch, aka Lemberger: Rich, spicy reds grown widely in eastern Europe and occasionally in the U.S. Northwest. From the red hot red wine center of Wurttemberg in the Mosel, B-21 sought out the 2007 Grafen Neipperg which shows how it’s done well ($15.99).
Dornfelder: Verystrong, fruity and good texture and a good grower, but still second to spatburgunder. Look to Rheinhessen producers like Valckenberg’s 2008 ($9.99).
Sankt Laurent: Probably related to pinot noir, good aroma and easier to grow.
Spatburgunder: German for pinot noir and the most heavily planted. B-21 has two from Baden under $15 and a rare treat found by B-21, the rave-winning 2005 Huber Malterninger ($59.99) one of Germany’s best .
Zweigelt: A cross of Blaufrankisch and Sankt Laurent, most popular in Austria and also grown in Canada.
- Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler
As the world resolves…
What does my hero Jancis Robinson see for 2010? She wishes for better wine service and other improbables, but sets her own agenda with rich practicality: Drink more and more Rieslings.
“It is relatively low in alcohol, high in flavour, develops beautifully in bottle, expresses terroir and goes very happily with so many of the foods we eat now. It doesn’t have to be sweet either.” www.ft.com/robinson
You go, girl. Riesling
2007 Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Kabinett Graacher Himmelreich ($29.99)
is indeed noble and certainly one of the finest whites with food, from sushi to pad Thai and fritto misto.
If you want to take up this challenge too, try the three corners of Planet Riesling.
From Germany, JJ Prum’s 2007 Kabinett Riesling from Graacher Himmelreich; round clean easy drinking, with the green freshness of the Mosel and lovely spices ($29.99).
Scoot down under where the Aussies have a longstanding fondness for Riesling; the 2008 Jacobs Creek Reserve shows why and how a ten-buck white made it to the Spectator’s top 100 list ($9.99).
Back home, the Riesling champions are appropriately in Washington state, and recognized by no less than the Mosel’s Ernie Loosen. He linked up with Chateau Ste. Michelle to make the elegant Eroica, now in its 2007 iteration. Like a mountain stream in a citrus grove. Buy a couple more for the cellar ($17.99)
- Chris Sherman
Burgunder on the rise
Man made or not, recent climate change has paid off for wine drinkers in odd ways. In the Rhone, vintages have been remarkably ripe for ten years (excepting hail-wracked 2002).
In Germany, a bigger miracle: warmer weather has changed the color of many German wines. Red wines now amount to 39 percent of wines in Germany. Most are Pinot Noir, aka Spatburgunder, Lemberger, Portugieier and Dornfelder. These new blaus are both numerous and good.
Very good judging by the dry reds poured by Julie Swift from vineyards in Wurtemberg and Baden.
2005 Huber Malterninger Bienenberg Pinot Noir ($59.99)
She reported that Huber’s 2005 Malterninger Bienenberg Pinot ($59.99) had won a Montelena-style blind showdown in Paris.
Not that the whites are shabby or disappearing. Indeed, 2003 and 2006 were so ripe and rich, that the traditional German ranking fails. Even the lowest ranks of QbA and Kabinett were ripe enough they amount to “declassified spatleses.” But at far less than top price. You have to know the law to break it.
You say your Riesling tastes minerally? What color slate do your taste buds see? If the wine is full of tropical fruits, the vineyards were likely on gray or blue slate. Areas of red slate are more rare and give a much spicier edge to the fruit, sprinkling it with cinnamon all the way down the finish. Some labels will give a clue, such as Rottlund (Rot = Red).
Could that be the secret to Washington’s great Red Mountain? Dispatch the rock climbers!