But that’s forgetting that Chester’s secret magic in in taming and training tannins not just in shiraz but wherever they lurk, as in this meritage of four of the classic five Bordeaux varietals. He treats them as an indie garagiste. He works in a galvanized shed and works hand and foot, crushing the grapes with artisan feet before a gentle basket press, to make a lush, lively drink. Cabernet sauvignon and merlot deliver cherry and chocolate flavors. Cab franc and petite verdot add a bouquet of flowers and a spicy punch at the end, all in the fine-grained tannin structure you get in Dead Arm and Footbolt. A great cabernet for shiraz drinkers.

Meet Chester Osborn of d'Arenberg Winery at B-21

You can taste it when Chester hosts an afternoon of tastings and seminars at B-21 on Sunday Sept. 19. Maybe he’ll include in the d’Arenberg treasure he pours at our four course dinner at Roy’s in Tampa. It’s perfect with gourmet Hawaiian ($79).

2006 D’Arenberg Galvo Garage Cabernet Sauvignon (McLaren Vale, Australia) 24.99

No room for shiraz here, Chester Osborn is playing the garagist game mixing and matching Boredeaux varietals like the indy vintners of France. He too works in a galvanized shed and goes further in artisan production, hand and foot, crushing the grapes by feet before a gentle basket press. Osborn puts together four of the classic five grapes into a lush and lively drink. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot carry the bulk of the cherry and chocolate flavors. Cab Franc and Petite Verdot add a bouquet of flowers and spice and a spicy punch at the end, all in the fine-grained tannin structure you get in Dead Arm and Footbolt. A great Cabernet for Shiraz drinkers — and right bank Bordeaux lovers. Get thick steaks or chops and have a red-ribbon day.

90 Points, Chris Sherman
Staff Selection, September 2010

2007 Mr. Riggs The Gaffer Shiraz (McLaren Vale)

For New Worlders, Australians are partial to oldsters, saw why when I met the Gafffer, the 2007 McLaren Vale Shiraz in Australian’s grand old style. Big, plush and friendly and faint memories of a good old sticky.

McLaren Vale winemaker Ben Riggs named the wine for his great grandfather, using the fond British slang for an old man. And Riggs’ ancestor was one of the country’s best farmers (of sheep too).

There’s no gaffe in this bottle: it starts with smoke and flowers in the nose, and then you are gripped in a thick puddle of plum jam and berries, with edges of licorice and pepper. The Mr. Riggs Gaffer 2007 ($19.99) won solid 90s from WS, ST and WE (the Wine Advocate gave 89 but predicted improvement in the bottle).

Already this is is remarkably ripe juice, that could intimidate a rack of lamb. Or replace it.

It’s proof that Riggs is one of Oz’s most innovative winemakers you‘ve never heard of. But you’re bound to know his taste: He‘s been a Flying Winemaker across southern Europe and Napa and is part of the crazy guys who put together Woop Woop, Penny’s Hill and the Black Chook, under the rattling umbrella of Galvanized Wine Group.

In that stable Mr. Riggs is Ben’s own label based on old family vineyards and character.

The Gaffer would be proud.

He might forgive the pink screwcap. I love it.

2007 Mitolo Shiraz Jester 15.99

Jesting aside, this is serious shiraz. Grower Frank Mitolo and wizard Ben Glaetezer put in hard work; grapes spend extra time on the skins and ferment more in the barrel. The result is pure, elegant pleasure. Oh so ready to drink, black coffee, chocolate and raspberry on the nose, big ripe and rich on the tongue like blackberry plum pudding with a tad of bacon fat or maybe Vegemite; fine soft tannins lead to a velvet finish. The laughline is the price , half what it could be.

91 Points, Chris Sherman
Staff Selection, August 2010

2006 Mitolo Shiraz Jester (McLaren Vale)

The Mitolo winery takes its fun seriously. The silliest thing on their labels is a Jester of the classical kind in suit of motley colors, belled hat and a fake scepter. This kind of joker goes back to before Shakespeare, a professional funny man hired to amuse and mock the court and king, with license to be truthful and mirthful, a precariously fine line.

It’s a clever image for wines; like Mitiolo’s Jester Shiraz ($15.99), a playful wine with soft approach, but ultimately straightforward and powerful. For extra grins, Mitolo’s back label honors a real jester, Richard Tarlton who was Queen Elizabeth’s favorite jokester and possibly the first comedian to become a superstar.

Given the royal standards for wit, I’d say the chances are slim for a 2108 Aussie shiraz dedicated to Adam Sandler.

2008 Yalumba Y Series Chardonnay Unwooded $9.99

Yalumba, one of the oldest and most innovative wineries in Australia, doesn‘t go in for much silliness on labels. I’m sure they have good times a plenty and the wines can be great fun. Still their labels are straight forward, saying for example that a chardonnay is unwooded or made by wild ferment.

But that’s a choice of style.

What concerns them is principle and meaning, say of words like “old vines” which can be a cause for skepticism or pride especially in the Barossa Valley. So they launched “The Barossa Old Vine Charter”. Asking others to sign on.

Under the Charter:

• Vines 35 years of age or more, can be named Barossa Old Vines.
• Those over 70 will be Survivor Vines;
• 100 years will be Centurion Vines;
• 125 years Ancestor Vines.

I’d sign that.

2005 Bacchantes 'The Dancer' Shiraz Gomersal Vineyard (Barossa) 14.99

No contest. This fat and juicy shiraz wine knows it can dance tonight and 10 years from now. And leap and twirl, wearing a perfume of blackberry, fennel and pepper, surprisingly delicate and poised for such a voluptuous wine with strong backbone. Credit that to its single-vineyard roots in 120-year old Gomersal and young partner Ben Glaetzer, Oz winemaker of the year in many books, and the first Aussie to collect 100 pts. from Parker. A rich taste of Glatezer style for pennies.

91 Points, Chris Sherman
Staff Selection, July 2010

In short, the Lonely Guy’s Dream Dinner with a modest amount of pretension.

2007 Wolf Blass Shiraz/Cabernet (South Australia) Reg: 9.99 On Sale: 7.99

But I respect hamburgers. Luscious, red and juicy and in Guy cuisine, not that far from a steak.

To Guys, a good burger calls for a steak wine; to call for a lightweight red is dissing the burger. And any good steak wine is happy to dance with beef in all forms.

My answer was Wolf Blass’s 2006 Gold Label shiraz ($17.99) from Barossa. This one was fat with flavor, berries and plums with hints of licorice and smoke. Not monstrous in weight or harshness, despite a full load of alcohol (15.5%) a very luscious drink.

It would have liked an inch-thick Delmonico — and it made the burger taste just as rich.

The Wine Speculator puts it at 91, and I agree. Especially at $17.99. You need a couple.

- Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler

2008 Charles Cimicky Trumps Shiraz (Barossa) $14.99

Harvey Steiman took a trip through Australian reds and among his 90 pointers was our fave from Barossa’s most serious winemaker, Charles Cimicky’s Shiraz Trumps.

“A juicy mouthful of plum, berry and tobacco flavors, hinting at clove and nutmeg as the finish lingers effortlessly. Drink now through 2018.”

We agree, this is a ripe shiraz, big on fruit and earthier flavors, and a keeper for the cellar. Only thing off is Wine Spectator tags the price as $19. C’mon down to B-21; it’s only $14.99.

- Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler

2008 Morse Code Shiraz

2008 Morse Code Shiraz (Padthaway, Australia)
SALE:  8.99

“Invite this Aussie shiraz to the barbie this weekend. Pure ripe fruit explodes in holiday fireworks: Red cherries, white pepper and blueberries. A blast in a bottle.”

90 Points!

Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler