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Miscellaneous
New pinot star Guarachi
2008 Guarachi Family Wines Pinot Noir
Best California Pinot Noir for my money was the debut vintage of Guarachi Family. Lots of red and black fruits and spice, remarkably rich and so big (14.8%) it benefits from decanting. (94WS, $49.99)
Although the Guarachi name seems new, you’ve probably sampled Alex Guarachi’s taste before. For 25 years, his TGIC firm has imported boatloads of top labels from Argentina and Chile: Achaval Ferrer, Montes, Kaiken, Norton, Pascual Toso and Santa Ema. All the while, he’s dreamed of starting his own winery, top-dollar wines from the most select appellations. He now has three, a Sonoma Mountain Chard, a Napa Cab and this killer Pinot from Crown Gap in Sonoma Coast. But then maybe you know the consulting winemaker, Paul Hobbs, world class in both Americas.
P.S. The vintners of all the Latin labels that Guarachi imports will be in Tampa Bay next month. Look for them to do a great tasting in Tarpon on Sunday, October 24th.
On the Oregon Trail: Pinots, ho!
2007 Rex Hill Pinot Noir (Willamette) 21.99
Oregon partisans have long said their state would be the home of great American pinot noir; many of those I tasted made the case well.
I‘ve watched Rex Hill for more than a decade and early on some vintages were more promise than delivery. Not the 2007 Willamette Valley, quite rich and round at a reasonable price for a Northwest pinot ($21.99).
The 2008’s were almost universally convincing. Owen Roe’s The Kilmore boasted “old vines” (in Oregon that may mean voting age) but I can’t argue about the grapes and juice. Peppery and as smooth as old leather, promoted on its Pommard similarity (93 WS, $41.99). I found Adelsheim’s Elizabeth Reserve even richer with berries and a touch of cigar box (92 WS, $49.99).
Ken Wright’s impressive line of vineyard-designated pinots was the sweepstakes winner. What a family, each attractive and quirky: peppery and peachy Canary Hill, the polished structure of Freedom Hill, dark and stony McCrone, and my favorite, the Carter vineyard, musky yet big round, and smooth, quite a mouthful (all $44.99).
P.S. If you want a full tour of Ken Wright’s Willamette, we have 2008’s from four other pinot vineyards. A delicious education.
Hat Night with La Cana Albariño
2009 La Cana Albarino
We found ourselves back at Ceviche for hat night where we celebrated our new favorite Albariño now September’s White wine of the month. Don’t mind Bob he forgot his hat :(
“La Cana’s just bottled 2009 Albarino reveals the excellence of the vintage in Rias Baixas. Light gold-colored with an unusually fragrant nose of mineral, lemon zest, and spring flowers that jumps from the glass, on the palate it exhibits a creamy texture, vibrant acidity, and a lengthy, refreshing finish. Drink it over the next 3 years.”
90 Points, The Wine Advocate
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2009 Porcupine Ridge Syrah (South Africa).
2009 Porcupine Ridge Syrah 9.99
An unbelievable value from South Africa’s Franschhoek Valley made by new-wave winemaker Marc Kent. It shares much in common with the Syrah-based wines of the northern Rhone, especially the rustic and dark-fruited crozes hermitage. It offers a deep ruby color, aromas of ripe berry fleshiness, violets, hints of black pepper, spice and cloves (SDR favs). The velvety texture and rustic tannins make it a great wine to enjoy solo or with most red meat dishes.
90 Points, Shannon Sprentall
Staff Selection, September 2010
What were we drinking: Think pink with ceviche and all is harmonious
2009 Charles Joguet Chinon Rosé 15.99
I’ve loved ceviche for 20 years since my first vagabonding on the gringo trail across Peru. Fish and shrimp cooked in nothing but the acid of the juice of lemons, limes and vinegar was an astonishing demonstration of heat-free preservation.
And a tough challenge for wine. The fish may have been creamy soft but the pickling juices, onions, pepper and garlic made it beer friendly and wine-hostile.
I continued to make ceviche to odd stares until sushi and a host of Latin restaurants made the glories of very fresh fish more palatable.
Matching wine remained a problem. Ceviche stabbed Chardonnay in the heart and out soured the most grapefruity Sauv Blanc. Occasionally ceviche made mischief with Riesling but it took a lot of care.
However this is the summer of rosé and boy is that the right answer. I lined up ceviche with the 2009 Chinon rosé from Charles Joguet in the Loire out of B-21’s grand rosé sampler and it was fun at first bite.
One reason is this rose comes from 100 percent cab franc, a sturdy and spicy source. So there’s crisp strawberry stone fruit up front but a broader base behind it with a bit of pepper and cinnamon. This is pure summer refreshment. Like most rosés, the Chinon goes well with picnic fare, hams, salami and salads.
Ceviche is also more than seafood and citrus. Made properly there’s coriander and cilantro, Peru’s own recotto peppers, and a garnish of cold sweet potato, corn nuts, and my crowning touch of orange sections (clementines, tangerines or mandarin). Mucho sabores. Mucho gusto.
M. Joguet had a good time in South America. I can’t wait to try more.
Matching wines with bouquets of another kind
2009 Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontes 11.99
Bored with matching solid and liquid pleasure, Food & Wine magazine leaped into more ethereal pairings: wine and flowers from high-style florists.
Try to guess what wine inspired San Francisco Studio Choo, (not the shoe Choos) to assemble a rustic smellathon of “honeysuckle, jasmine and roses loosely gathered with sage, apricots and thyme.”
Pretty lovely eh?
Correct answer: The 2009 Crios Torrontes from Susana Balbo (92SS, $11.99). I agree, the scents are there and Torrontes is a charmer with more aroma than grapefruit. They do last longer in the arrangement than in an open bottle at my house.
For another, Holly Flora of LA put together peonies, lilacs and irisis with mint and basil. This was to compliment Hugel’s 2007 Alsatian Gewurztraminer. Good idea, but you can get as many flowers and herbs from Hugel’s Gentil ($7.99) , a ripe 2006 blend of Gewurz, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat and more. At a price to match a supermarket bundle of fresh flowers.
Walla walla wish we were there: Cool 2007 made great reds
2007 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla) 89.99
So says Augustus Weed of Wine Spectator: clear cool October “allowed Washington winemakers to pick their grapes with an emphasis on pure fruit flavors without excessive alcohol. This translates to rich, plush wines that should appeal to a range of tastes.”
You bet, especially in good old Walla Walla, part of the reason that Washington promised and delivered great reds, not just Merlot but Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache and more. Now we can taste that those early Cabs and Merlots got even better with age.
On to 2007, where we have a number of favorites: K Vintners “The Boy”, 90% Grenache $49.99 and Leonetti Cellar’s monster Cabernet Sauvignon (97WE, $89.99), with which you can conduct your own time trials.
2007: A year to remember for Napa cabs
2006 Marietta Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley) 19.99
Recent Wine Spectator posting was unequivocal: “2007 will go down in the record books (and in the vintage charts) as a terrific year for California Cabernet… the long, even growing season resulted in rich, opulent wines.”
No kidding. We’ve already got two 98-pointers on the shelves and at reasonable prices for great wine (and Napa pretensions: Dominus ($129.99) and Robert Foley ($119.99).
The juiciness holds all down the line. You can lick your chops and taste the glory of 2007 for less than $25. Two of our house favorites are Marietta Alexander Valley Cab (93SR, $19.99) and Chappellet’s Mt. Cuvee (92 WS, $21.99).
And for the thrifty tippler in me, the silky Louis Martini Sonoma (92WN, 90WA $11.99) is the best of all. Seductive in taste and price.
Rosé and the endless summer
2009 Domaines Ott Chateau de Selle Rosé
Cotes de Provence now devotes 86% of its vineyards to rosé, up from 70% a decade ago, good news for those who live where we fear the will never drop. That’s the report by Andrew Jefford in the Financial Times last week, who also revealed that the French now drink more rosé than white.
Rosés are not for power, he contends “It’s an exercise in finesse, in delicacy and in discretion. This is fencing, not wrestling.”
We agree to that and also with his fondness for the 2009 Domaines Ott Chateau de Selle : (90WS, $36.99) which Jefford calls frank, full and showing raspberry warmth he credits to old vine grapes.That’s just one example of the many rosés in our basket.
Stop and smell ‘em.
Tuesday Night is Hat Night
Me and my Dad celebrating Hat Night at Ceviche in Clearwater.
About 3 years ago Tuesday nights were established as a date night with my Dad, also referred to as Hat Night. Thanks to our slight obsession with hats (not to be confused with caps) we decided one night out of the week was needed to explore fine wine, scrumptious food, and show off our hat collection in the greater Tampa Bay area. Last night my Dad and I ventured out to the new Ceviche in Clearwater on Gulf to Bay. We were taken back by the Latin acoustic rhythms of Sombras Flamencas, the table top covered with delicious tapas from the $4 Tapas Tuesday menu, and the perfect summer rosé.
2009 Muga Rosado (Rioja, Spain) $11.99
(60% garnacha, 30% viura and 10% tempranillo) Vivid pink. Complex, highly aromatic bouquet of pink grapefruit, strawberry, rhubarb and white flowers, with a strong mineral undertone. Bright, racy red berry flavors are given a tangy edge by citrus zest and white pepper, with the mineral quality adding lift and cut. Finishes suave, spicy and long, with excellent thrust. (Fine Estates from Spain Dedham MA) 90 points Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Jul 10, 2010