2009 Vietti Roero Arneis (Piedmont)

Before our grand tasting we alerted you that Vietti’s fresh 2009 Arneis ($19.99) would be on hand and it was a crowd pleaser indeed. It was the top selling white wine of the day thanks to its clean crisp essence of pear and almonds.

If whites were in the minority, they were not short on quality, for far more than fridge quaffers.

The 2008 Alois Lageder Riff pinot grigio showed p.g. at its crisp northeastern best, full and aromatic, only $9.99 which should shame plonck producers on both sides of the ocean.

For pinot bianco, a dear favorite of mine. The 2007 St. Michael-Eppan Schulthauser had full body and Germanic complexity, crisp minerality, great aroma of peach and flowers, with earthy fruitiness of apricot. Rich for $15.99

Best deal of whites from Planet V, the 2009 Marchetti Verdicchio for Castelli di Jesi in the Marches, crisp, fun and more character than you ever found in a fish bottle ($12.99).

Spain wins the World Cup!

Spain was the winner in the World Cup, and they won us over with their Riojas at our recent wine dinner. Ten of the best of Rioja reds strolled down long tables laden with home cooking by chef Felix Piedra at Vizcaya in Carrollwood to near continuous applause.

Modern or traditional, Riojas are one of the great under priced treasures in wine.

B-21 brought together top importers and Rioja ambassador, Dhane Chesson, for a grand dinner with some of most exceptional Spanish wines in our cellar covering vintages back to 1997. Summer Martin, our scholar of Spanish wines, arranged a slection from delicious good values to the breathtaking 2005 San Vicente.

It took four flights to get through them and there wasn’t a dog in the line up no matter the price point.

The conclusion was flan tinted with calabaza and reassurance that Rioja rightly wears the crown of Spanish.

Our tastings also proved that for all the improvements in young Spanish reds, the traditional custom of long againg and lots of oak, when properly tuned, does in fact move Tempranillo from tannic and tart through dry and lusty into a bright cheerful middle age.

Dinner at Vizcaya

Where to start? Might as well be the beginning, a platter of crisp frituras and shrimp starring remarkably light croquetas of cod (most Americans will have to be threatened with a stiff baton of salt cod before they realize this). The wines were light stuff, a rosado and the 2005 Ramon Bilbao crianza and the hip 2006 Viña Zaco. The immediate reaction was delight at the smooth richness of what was the cheaper lead-off ranks. “You can’t beat these at twice the price,” said my neighbor and Spanish fan Louis Wang of Westchase, yet we knew the values would get even better.

The next round was suppplied by Conde Valdemar. The Bujanda family carefully blends a touch of mazuela in with the Tempranillo as they blend modernity with a century old tradition for stylish individuality. To me the 2005 Crianza showed better than the older 2004 reserva, and had ample plums, cherries and berries with hints of the same cedar and spice box that were stronger in the 2004. For my money (only $10.99) it was a steal, a good match for the night stuffed piquillo peppers — and a steak next weekend.

On to La Rioja Alta, a great traditionalist. We had two, my favorite was again in the middle range, the 2000 Viña Ardanza, age never looked so fetching, sweet with an exotic perfume of smoke and vanilla lightly worn.  This is sold out unfortunately, but it reminds me to buy in when the Spanish debut, they are drinkable then but so worth keeping.

The food pairing was with Piedras’ meatballs which would make even lousy wine a hero.

2005 San Vicente, my favorite of the night!

Could it get better. Oh yes, next came the 2005 Muga Reserva Especial (93 points, $29.99) leading the top rank with the main course, which for me was a salteado of tenderloin tips and chorizo. The Muga was rich stuff, dense rich dark fruit with a caravan of spice notes, a keeper for another 20 years. The coup de grace was to be the 2004 Remiriez de Ganuza unfiltered (96 pts $69.99) big, earthy fruit and spice and likely to be enjoyed for decades.

Again, I returned to the middle pour, this the 2005 San Vicente ($49.99) from the Egurens of Sierra Cantabria; versatile, modern and stylish. The most lush wine of the night, ripe with black raspberries cherries and plums, with wisps of coffee and chocolate, strong and supple like well worn leather. It was the buy-now, drink-now bottle at my table led by Laura Stark of Saddlebrook.

I agree, in fact every glass in this flight seemed to empty. And more remarkable, we found that there had been the same high quality and drink ability at $10 as at $70.

You shudda been there.  (For pictures of what you missed visit our facebook page!  http://facebook.com/b21wine

The reason is chef Felix Piedra, who grew up in the Basque region and then cooked his way across Tampa to his crowning restaurant, Vizcaya.

It’s an intimate spot with a vivid splash of modern Spain in the décor and an authentic taste on the table and in the air. Must be the longest tapas list in town, including braised quail, wild rabbit, Spanish cheeses, tuna and clementines. The true Spaniard continues on with meat and classic seafood entrees, from merluza (hake or corvina) with lobster to zarzuela.

No surprise Piedra’s a magnetic host for Spanish heroes, jai alai stars and visiting wine makers. And local food lovers, the Nibbler included.

So Vizcaya’s a natural showcase for our wine dinner ($79 all-inclusive make your reservations now). We‘ll pair great Rioja wines with croquetas, tortillas, sole, steak, a side of paella and, my favorite word of all in the Spanish kitchen, albondigas. Piedra makes those meatballs with veal and wild mushrooms.

We hope you can join us. If not, put Vizcaya on your must-go-soon list.

- Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler

FREE RIOJA TASTING AT B-21 THIS SATURDAY FROM 1PM TO 5PM! COME ONE COME ALL!

While Spain explodes with exciting new wines almost everywhere, quality is nothing new in Rioja.

You can get a fresh taste of Spain’s historic vineyards at B-21’s free tasting next Saturday, June 12.

(You did know that we have free tastings every Saturday in addition to our Very Big Deal affairs like the Grand Italian Tasting on Sunday, June 13).

The June 12 Spanish tasting promises a fun re-education for anyone whose only memories of Rioja were cheap dusty, wooden drinks of 20 years ago. Today’s Rioja is brighter and yet still rich with classic tradition. It’s a beautiful region, along the river through northeast Spain, south of Bilbao and one mountain range away from Bordeaux.

Come explore it Saturday. If you can’t make it, B-21 has a deep cellar of great Rioja labels old and new like Bodegas Muga, Pujanza, Remirez de Ganuza and Finca Allende.

2007 J. Lohr Cabernet Sauvignon Seven Oaks (Paso Robles) $11.99

They couldn’t steal the show at our spring tasting, not with the best of Bordeaux on display and the likes of a vertical tasting of Ch. Angelus (oh my, more of that later) … but purse-wise tasters may have found their $12 house reds from poor old California. Two familiar names tied at that price range.

One was the 2007 J. Lohr Seven Oaks cab from down Paso Robles, jammy with cherries and blackberries laced with chocolate with cinnamon and clove, a big velvet mouthful.

The other came from Louis Martini, who showed off the 2005 Lot No. 1 wow from Napa ($79.99) but it was the entry level 2007 Sonoma cabernet at $11.99 that won the most hearts. Blackberries and sexy hints of coffee, smoke and spice, and silky all the way down.

For texture and flavor, both of these are best buys in the Nibbler’s book. Get six of each.

- Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler

B-21's Dinner with Jeffrey Davies at Currents in Tarpon Springs

The ash cloud over Iceland cast its long shadow even over the Tampa Bay area last weekend. Flight cancellation to the U.S. grounded some special guests coming to the annual Bordeaux tasting, both celebrated winemakers and consultants, and their infant prodigies, barrel samplings of the beloved new 2009 vintage.

Several stalwarts were in the U.S. before flights stopped including Coralie de Bouard of Chateau Angelus, negociant Jeffrey Davies and Emilie Riebel-Dombey representing Chateau Le Gay.

And the 2009’s arrived in spirit and starred in the table talk at the Bordeaux dinner at Seasons 52. “Good as they say?”, “That’s not what I read.”  “I’m absolutely going to buy,” but when and at what price? Will the prices be highest for the first futures or later tranches? Will the dollar buy more now or later?

Actually if the samples had arrived, they might have distracted our conversation.

Besides we had 2005s in our glasses and they were not abstractions. They set a high standard for the ’09s to match and sparked their own debate.

Smith Haut Lafitte (Pessac-Leognan) $89.99

The winners were Smith Haut Lafitte ($89.99) and La Gaffeliere. ($99.99) I put the left-banker first because it was so big and smoky and friendly like a coat by the fire. Smart and passionate tasters went for the La Gaffeliere from St. Emilion, with more berries and chocolate, in five years I may switch sides. A strong minority report supported the neighboring Canon La Gaffeliere ($109.99), which was the sleekest and most approachable. If you ask one to dance tonight, the Canon is your partner.

Seasons 52, Tampa’s “it” restaurant of the moment and the newest location of the Orlando concept was luminous that night and the menu had all its vaunted style and spunk. “I‘ve been to many wine tastings in my career but I’ve never had chiles relleno,” confessed importer Greg Miller, “and I think the Bordeaux stood up well.”

He’s right. Nothing timid about husky smoky ancho chiles with goat cheese and punchy pico de gallo, smoke fire and a pinch of sour. Yet first quality right bank 2006’s were bold enough. My choice was the 2006 La Croix St. Georges, ($59.99) from Pomerol, a spiced creamy fudge that made a mole with the chiles.

But as a Tuesday night go-to Bordeaux for Mexican spice and big flavors like Seasons 52’s crackling flatbreads , the 2008 Croix Mouton ($10.99) has value and excitement. Jean-Philippe Janoueix makes this in the Bordeaux Superieur appellation on the left bank; a merlot for all seasons with more guts and finish than you expect.

- Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler

So how did I wrap up the night?  With a juicy steak and a bottle of the 2007 Laurel by Clos Erasmus.  All I can say is ”Wow!”.   I think its better than the 2006 from my recollection.  Very big and velvety with blackberries and licorice.  It was the perfect ending to a great wine weekend.

2007 Laurel by Clos Erasmus $49.99

Some history on Laurel:

The Laurel cuvee is produced 100% from the Clos Erasmus vineyards but from the more recent plantings and is the result of declassification of some of the barrels of Clos Erasmus. It is approx. 50% grenache, 30% syrah, and 20% cab.  In 2005, Clos Erasmus was chosen by Robert Parker (the million dollar nose) to be included among the 175 estates in his book “The World’s Greatest Wine Estates”. That says a lot, especially being that only six of the estates chosen were from Spain.

- Summer Martin, B-21′s Spain & Portugal Advocate

Jancis Robinson

“Napa” in those precincts means means over-ripe, heavily extracted, and high alcohol. That’s not just a style choice, but a near impossibility for most of the left bank. On the western shore of the Gironde, Cabernet Sauvignon wines can be thin and pale at first. This year Ch. Haut-Brion will hit 14 percent alcohol, in what Robert Luxembourg told me may be the best vintage in 200 years.

While approving, Robinson took a nuanced stance outside the general exuberance. In her analysis the driving force in the rich 2009 vintage was not an overextraction conspiracy or trend-jumping, but the weather and site, as it should be. In this case, good weather, lots of warmth and proper rain, but so much warmth it was a challenge. Top vineyards handled it in Bordeaux form but in some vineyards grapes were overripe with flavor and sugar, but underdeveloped in tannin.

In effect she told 2009, “you’re no 2005,” but couldn’t help grinning:  “Overall this vintage can offer more sheer pleasure than any I can remember and may well provide delicious drinking throughout its life while we wait for the 2005s to emerge from their tannic corsets.”

And so it went through many reports from the hundreds of wine writers, merchants and critics, from Suckling to Tanzer. Great vintage, but how great – and in the months to come, the bigger question, how much?

For now this vintage shapes up as both delicious and highly-debated, a double treat for the tongue.  For more insights on the 2009 Bordeaux vintage, don’t miss this weekend’s tasting and seminars with the likes of importer Jeffrey Davies, consulting wizard Stephen Derenoncourt, Angelus proprietor Coralie de Bouard and more.

They should know.  You will too.

And B-21 will have a full stock of 2009 futures, so be ready to place your bets.

- Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler

2007 Chateau Rigaud $11.99

One of the tricks to sorting out unfamiliar bottles is to turn them around to see if the name of the importer in small print is a name you trust.

Like Jeffrey Davies.

If you don’t know the vineyard or the appellation, Davies does and you’re set. I first sipped with him a few years ago and realized he knew everything I needed to know. A sunny Californian AND a 20-year resident of Bordeaux, he has a nose for the underappreciated cru or the one that needs a only a small touch to elevate it.

You can find out yourself when he comes to Tarpon to host a Grand Dinner and a Tasting of 2009 barrel samples during B-21’s star-studded celebration of Bordeaux and Beyond this month.

Life has changed since 1855 and Davies knows it.

From the right bank he has revived and promoted names like Ch. Valandraud and La Gomerie and he’s found even more treasures in the lands beyond Lalande: the Cotes de Bordeaux, Blaye , Bergerac, Fitou and Minervois. All the places I wish I knew better, Davies has already explored and found the best.

There are still a few tickets left for the April 17^th dinner and barrel sampling at Currents in Tarpon with Davies and two of our other star guests from France, Jean Christophe Meyrou and Francois Villars. It kicks off at 4 p.m. with  twelve count ‘em, 12 barrel samples from the much-buzzed 2009 vintage, followed by a grand dinner at 5 p.m.  The price for the evening is $65.

If you can’t make the dinner, come to Sunday’s tastings and seminars. If you miss them both, buy a bottle of 2007 Ch. Rigaud, a Davies prize from Faugeres, made from syrah, grenache and the help of Claude Gros. Not the usual ingredients, but unusual quality: earthy black fruit and smoke and satiny on the palate. Maybe the best of the southwest — and a taste of Davies’ imagination.  ($11.99).

We knew great names of the Bordeaux wine trade and great wines were coming to Aprils Grand Bordeaux Tasting and Sale. As a bonus they are bringing 2009 barrel samples of the likes of Haut Bages Liberal and La Confession to taste at our two grand wine dinners Saturday April 17th.

Jeffrey Davies of Signature Selections

This year we will hold two dinners, one at Currents in Tarpon Springs and the other at the new Seasons 52 in Tampa, and each will feature a 2009 barrel sampling plus a multi-course meal paired with seven top French labels from recent vintages, and a chance to meet the great names and faces of modern Bordeaux. 

Jeffrey Davies, negociant extraordinaire, will headline the Bordeaux and Beyond Dinner at Currents, our intimate, favorite, close to home base in Tarpon. Davies will be joined by Jean-Christophe Meyrou of Chateau Le Gay and Francois Villars of  Gruaud- La Rose. They’ll pour an exciting range from St. Emilion, Minervois, Fitou, Bergerac and the south of France, including Davies’ own 2007 Chateau Rigaud. Reception and barrel sampling begins at 4 p.m, dinner at 5 p.m.; cost is $65 per person, all inclusive.

The Bordeaux Revealed Dinner will be held at Seasons 52, the sleek wine-savvy restaurant at Westshore Plaza. Here our stars are a trio Bordeaux of innovators, consulting wizard Stephane Derenoncourt, wine grower Jean-Phillipe Janoueix and negociant/vintner Christophe Reboule Salze. The wines will come from their own properties and also Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte. Reception and barrel sampling is at 6:15 p.m., dinner at 7 p.m.; cost is $85, per person, all inclusive. 

What a choice. I‘d love to be at both, but duty summons me to Seasons 52 (and it’s closer to home). I’ll see some of you there.

Either dinner and barrel sampling is a lot closer than the quais on the Gironde. 

And if your Saturday night’s booked, all our guests will be at the Sunday tasting and sale ($25) in Tarpon with the addition of Coralie de Bouard of Chateau Angelus and La Fleur de Bouard.

De Bouard will preside over a bonus tasting, a rare vertical of Angelus, four years of great St. Emilion: 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007. A real flight of fancy with Angelus providing the wings. 

Reserve a spot now at B-21.com

- Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler