older vintages
Vintage update: Raiding Peter’s cellar
In my neighborhood it’s a holiday tradition that late on Dec. 24, when Father Christmas is in full Yuletide (or in his cups) he gets loose with the cellar keys. This year our wine Santa (aka Peter Vagg) reached into his bag and pulled out some real sugar plums.
1989 Penfold’s Grange Hermitage: True figgy pudding and the champ of the night, plummy, berry fruits and lots of spice at 20, easy and smooth drinking. Long finish.
1985 Echezeaux: This took time, perhaps a full hour in a decanter, and revealed itself to s joy in prefect condition, cherries wrapped in dark cocoa and coffee. Earthy and strong enough to last another ten.
1998 Moccagatta Barbaresco Bric Balin ($37.99)
1972 Barbaresco: Producer unknown, but it had a B-21 price tag of $19.99. Near its limit, but a remarkable show for a theoretically light Nebbiolo, still clean, distinct berry brightness surrounded by cedar, tobacco and earth tones.
I report on these oldies in case you’re looking at some in your closet and wondering “Should I…”
The answer is YES. Make it a New Year’s resolution. Open those old bottles and make room to re-stock. B-21 has Barbarescos from 1998 at $37.99 and Echezeaux from the great 2006 for $99.99. It’s much more fun than cleaning out the garage.
- Chris Sherman, The Nibbler
Older wines from Bobby’s Bistro on Clearwater Beach
Robert Parker’s forum says December is the month to “Open an old bottle and post a note”.
From one Bob to another, here are 3 bottles I’ve opened recently at Bobby’s Bistro on Clearwater Beach:
Joseph Drouhin Latricieres-Chambertin 1990:
This bottle was not correct, the unfortunate reality of older bottles sometimes. I came back to it as notes in my Blackberry reminded me I had tasted within the last year – stunning wine. All the animal one expects in a Grand Cru Gevrey just not this time. Bobby stashed away a lot of 85’s and 90’s years ago and the prices have not really moved much… I have had some great Drouhin wines here over the last 10 years. Wine well stored.
Bouchard Beaune L’Enfant Jesus 1993:
Superb. I was a fan of many 1993’s on release and this is why. This is what a great Beaune should be and at 89 bucks on the wine list; a steal!
Haut Batailley (Pauillac) 1996:
Good earthy/mushroom overtones initially, and with time really dominated the wines profile. Not clear that this was Pauillac to me, but for the price I could not pass, but will for next visit.