Horror on the Mosel: A bridge too far along?

by Chris Sherman (B-21) under Miscellaneous

Earth moving equipment is in place to begin the approaches planned for a massive mile long bridge at Urzig not far from Bernkastel and the wine world is already shaking.

Many German wine makers, locals and environmentalist say the four lane bridge flying between the hillsides and over the river will disrupt natural runoff and air current and add large amounts of salt, gas fumes and other pollutants to the 2000 year old wine scape.

Manfred Prum of J.J. Prum says “This giant, grotesque would irreversibly deface the beautiful viticulture landscape of the Middle Mosel.” Markus Molitor says the bridge will hit “precisely (at) some of the rare Grosse Lagen vineyards or the Mosel. ”

Ernst Loosen, has weighed in against the bridge, so have wine writers. Jancis Robinson calls it madness and Hugh Johnson says the “motorway on stilts” threatens vineyard areas between Bernkastel and Erden that are “the first ones I would save.”

There is another side, including some winemakers who support the bridge and new highway to connect the region with the low countries, and others who are resigned, saying that new protests are five years too late.

Perhaps not, German elections are coming and finances are strained throughout Europe.

2005 Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese **

2005 Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ** $39.99

Aesthetically, the bridge so tall, so long and so plain, lacks the lightness and style of great Rieslings — and great bridges. It’s no Sunshine Skyway. And I imagine when it’s built it will need scenic overlooks mid-span for Kodak moments looking at the valley that once was.

I won’t say that this is a last chance for these great vineyards, but if you want to taste what the fuss is all about, B21 has fine examples on hand. From the great 2005 vintage, try Molitor’s Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese, a 97 pointer for $39.99, or J.J. Prum’s for $34.99. If you’re not already a fan of Loosen, try his 2008 Dr. L ($11.99).

I think you’ll agree that they have something special. They’ll appreciate your support.

- Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler

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Sunday, May 30th, 2010 Miscellaneous

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