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German wine , it’s not all white. You knew that, you say but you’re still confused?
Once limited local oddities, reds of Germany and Austria, especially pinot noir, have boomed in production and promotion. While pinot has always been something of a cool climate red, warming climates has allowed it to move farther north and ripen better; plus viticulturalists have bred, rescued and purified other grape strain. More than a third of German vineyards now bear red .
Media reception is warmer too judging from Eric Asimov’s report of a wine dinner with 19 Spatburgunders at the Austrian restaurant Seasonal in Manhattan in the NYT.
For those who have learned the infinite parsing of Riesling in Germanic hands, red wines are a different matter. Many areas, old and new ,and a bigger range of grapes. One clue, when seeking g red in German wine terms, think blau (blue or black grapes) and rot (red but a poor word choice).
So here’s a clue to the German names of varietals you’ll find on bottles from Mitteleuropa (and from other chilly climates around the world seeking grapes with flavor and hardiness):
2008 P. J. Valckenberg Dornfelder - 9.99 (8.99 by the case!)
Blauer Portugieser: No one knows if it has roots in Oporto, but it makes good roses and reds from dull to claret. Get a good taste of it from the 2007 Kallstadt ($9.99).
Blaufrankisch, aka Lemberger: Rich, spicy reds grown widely in eastern Europe and occasionally in the U.S. Northwest. From the red hot red wine center of Wurttemberg in the Mosel, B-21 sought out the 2007 Grafen Neipperg which shows how it’s done well ($15.99).
Dornfelder: Verystrong, fruity and good texture and a good grower, but still second to spatburgunder. Look to Rheinhessen producers like Valckenberg’s 2008 ($9.99).
Sankt Laurent: Probably related to pinot noir, good aroma and easier to grow.
Spatburgunder: German for pinot noir and the most heavily planted. B-21 has two from Baden under $15 and a rare treat found by B-21, the rave-winning 2005 Huber Malterninger ($59.99) one of Germany’s best .
Zweigelt: A cross of Blaufrankisch and Sankt Laurent, most popular in Austria and also grown in Canada.
- Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler
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