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What were we drinking? Inch-thick veal chops and ’98 songs of Roland
2000 Roland La Garde ($34.99)
It’s hard to eat and drink like this anywhere but home. Many chefs could match me in searing big veal chops to a crackling crust (and still luscious flesh medium rare inside) with caramelized onions and wild mushrooms with polenta and garlicked rapini on the side. But find an 11-year old bottle of Roland la Garde? There it was in my very petite cellar, and the price tag still said $17.99. Remember when.
Another lesson in the joys of waiting – but not too long. And a delicious defense of the Bordeaux fringe, in this case the Cotes de Blaye, where Bruno Martin brings first class by-hand technique to traditionally grown vines. The 1998 was rich easy drinking, supple and sleek yet stout hearted and earthy enough for the hearty flavors of a very carnivorous dinner.
Plus the warrior Roland still sings lustily in the far Medoc. The ’98 is gone but the 2000 is among us and gives a rich taste of Martin’s combination of new thinking in old vineyards. Roland, Charlemagne’s nephew, was there on a hill over the Gironde in 778, the vintage of 2000 is $34.99. History doesn’t come cheaper.
- Chris Sherman
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