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Don’t believe everything in the NYT: In defense of ’04 Brunello di Montalcino
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2004 Frescobaldi CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino ($57.99) - 95 Points by Wine Spectator & #15 on WS's Top 100 of 2009
Even before the scandalous allegations that some labels violated the Sangiovese-only rules, Montalcino was a fine appellation that attracted too much show-off cult status and camp-following hustlers. And 2004 was a little dicey (Parker says 95 but inconsistent) and Brunello, like Burgundy, is expensive juice with rarely a cheap bet.
But 2004’s are mighty young to write off. And the Times cutoff of $75 proves to me the high price of drinking in New York.
There are fine 2004s under $75, at least here in little old Tarpon. Steve Rayman, our go-to on Italy, loves the 2004 from Frescobaldi’s CastelGiocondo ($57.99) and there’s more. The world-beaters at Casanova di Neri make a fine Tenuta Nuova ($69.99). Too high, you can name that Brunello tune sweetly for $40 to $60 from Ferrero, Argiano and Ciacci Piccolomini. Actually just pronouncing “Ciacci Piccolomini Brunello di Montalcino” in one breath tastes mighty good.
That’s the key with Brunello, do the work to find a label and merchant you trust. The rest have their own work to do until Brunello means as much as Barolo.
- Chris Sherman
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