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Vintage update: Raiding Peter’s cellar
In my neighborhood it’s a holiday tradition that late on Dec. 24, when Father Christmas is in full Yuletide (or in his cups) he gets loose with the cellar keys. This year our wine Santa (aka Peter Vagg) reached into his bag and pulled out some real sugar plums.
1989 Penfold’s Grange Hermitage: True figgy pudding and the champ of the night, plummy, berry fruits and lots of spice at 20, easy and smooth drinking. Long finish.
1985 Echezeaux: This took time, perhaps a full hour in a decanter, and revealed itself to s joy in prefect condition, cherries wrapped in dark cocoa and coffee. Earthy and strong enough to last another ten.
1998 Moccagatta Barbaresco Bric Balin ($37.99)
1972 Barbaresco: Producer unknown, but it had a B-21 price tag of $19.99. Near its limit, but a remarkable show for a theoretically light Nebbiolo, still clean, distinct berry brightness surrounded by cedar, tobacco and earth tones.
I report on these oldies in case you’re looking at some in your closet and wondering “Should I…”
The answer is YES. Make it a New Year’s resolution. Open those old bottles and make room to re-stock. B-21 has Barbarescos from 1998 at $37.99 and Echezeaux from the great 2006 for $99.99. It’s much more fun than cleaning out the garage.
- Chris Sherman, The Nibbler
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