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Auld lang wine: When California and Claiborne were young…
Came across a yellowed collection of gourmet commentary from the late great Craig Claiborne, one of the pioneer foodies of the New York Times. He started a newsletter in 1972 advising his readers on restaurants, recipes and wine. Our first food and wine blogger?
“Can American wines compare with those of European vineyards?” he asked in December 37 years ago. Yes, and Claiborne allowed there was even California wine in his home. To reject all California wine was “acute snobbism.”
The more intriguing comments I dusted off were more specific:
“Some of the best mass-produced wine in America are Alamden, Christian Brothers, Paul Masson and Inglenook. The wines of smaller production and with a certain elegance are Beaulieu Vineyards, Louis Martini, Wente Brothers, Robert Mondavi and Sonoma Vineyards. Even smaller and excellent are Ridge Vineyards and Hanzell.”
2007 Louis Martini Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon ($11.99) 92WN & 90WS
Not all of those labels are quite so proud now or in the same families, but they got us started – not so very long ago.
And they can still make great wine. The lush 2005 Mondavi Reserve Cab ($79.99) and BV’s 2005 Georges de Latour ($59.99) were among the standout big cabs of this years tasting. A major rebuilding campaign has Wente making news again, the 2006 Pinot Noir from Arroyo Seco is fine affordable Pinot. Louis Martini is especially worth remembering for Cabernet at all price points from $11.99 Sonoma Cab up to the 2005 Mike Martini Select ($79.99) which is a treasure of tradition worth keeping for decades.
Craig was right on the “little guys” too. Hanzell’s mountaintop Sonoma Chardonnays are among the richest and most long-lasting whites we have. The 2004 and 2005 are still winning 90s and are worth salting away until 2015 ($59.99). And what hath Ridge wrought? The years and the brilliance of Paul Draper are excellent in countless ways from my dear Zinfandel to Santra Cruz Chards. Just in the 2005 vintage B-21 has great lively Zins from York Creek, Lytton, Dry Creek and Ponzo, ($24.99 to $29.99).
That Claiborne was on the right track.
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