Archive for December, 2009
Beyond the great houses: Grower Champagne in the fields
Agrapart Les 7 Crus 1er Cru Blanc de Blanc ($34.99)
Forget for a moment, the Doms, the great ladies and the chandelier bottles of the tetes de cuvee. The true marque of the Champagne connoisseur is the label of a small artisanal grower not a big house with a steady style and heady marketing. Independent growers tend smaller, precise plots of Chardonnay and Pinot, blended and bottled according to their own taste and terroir, not house wishes.
Mind you these are pure Champagne, from the right grapes and the delimited area of the cold chalky north, yet they have personal style, purity and freshness that delivers more excitement for the money than label status. The flavors range from brisk and mineral to creamy and opulent, just like the big boys. Grower prices are great value too: Even vintage bubbly and old-vine Mesnil can be half the show-off bottles. Production is limited but B-21 has wise buys from favorite growers like Agrapart, Egly-Ouriet and Saint-Chamant.
Ranger Rhett’s warning: “Chill out.”
“Keep it cold, very cold”, B-21’s Rhett Beiletti warns this holiday season. He’s insistent on this, “The bottle should be burn cold to the touch.”
How to get that cold?
1. After 3 hours on the bottom shelf of your refrigerator place in the freezer for another 20 minutes before opening.
2. Take time to make a bucket with 2/3 ice and 1/3 water to keep completely chilled.
“It is an action that will be completely rewarded. Sante,” Rhett says.
Brrr, and don’t forget to put out the fire before going to bed.
Screw Tops: Friend or Foe?
There are arguments for and against the use of screw caps on wine bottles with cork breakdown leading the charge against. The cork industry suggests a 2.5% failure rate, while the wine industry argues that the number is considerably higher, somewhere between 8-15%. Additionally, tainted corks introduce 2,4,6- trichloroanisole, a chemical that imparts a musty, wet basement odor to wines. Synthetic corks have also proven ineffective, detrimental even, removing sulphur, altering mouthfeel, and speeding oxidation, dulling both the nose and flavor. Another school of thought points to the lack of need for long term storage. More than 80% of wine bought in the United States is opened within 48 hours of purchase with a staggering 98% poured within 6 months.
Decades ago the folks at Gallo tested screw caps and espoused their superiority over corks. Hogue Cellars conducted a 30-month study comparing natural and synthetic cork closures with Stelvin screw caps, their findings suggest significant benefits in utilizing screw caps over either natural or synthetic cork closures. While screw caps do diminish the drama and romance of bottle opening it is well worth the sacrifice to ensure untainted wine that offers consistent aging, sustained flavor and freshness with optimum quality.
New Zealand currently leads the industry with nearly 30 wineries employing screw caps. A significant number of highly regarded wineries in the United States are taking the plunge. Plumpjack has been bottling 50% of their reserve production in Stelvin screw caps. Look for Calera, Argyle and Sonoma-Cutrer to join in on the action. Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon has given up on cork completely; his entire production is bottled with screw caps this year. Grahm believes that screw caps are the best closure currently available. We are sure to see this trend take hold as winemakers and wine enthusiasts alike place a higher priority on overall quality and less on “corked” tradition.
An article by the San Francisco Chronicle’s Carol Emert sheds some light on the subject:
“At a blind tasting last week at PlumpJack, the three wine writers in attendance agreed that the screw-capped 1998 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon showed more signs of aging than an identical cork-finished bottle. (PlumpJack bottles half of its Reserve each way and sells it in two-packs for comparison.)
The screw-cap version was very good, but a tad less fruity and had a slightly less round mouth-feel than the same wine sealed with cork.
PlumpJack managing partner Gavin Newsom — perhaps better known as a San Francisco supervisor and mayoral candidate — noted that wines go through cycles in the bottle.
‘I’ll take the screw cap at this point,’ Newsom said.
PlumpJack majority owner Gordon Getty, also tasting blind, found he preferred the screw-capped version because it had more nose, was softer on the palate and reminded him of ‘an old French wine.’
‘I could be making a fool of myself, but I make a business of doing that,’ said the San Francisco billionaire as he pondered two glasses of deep purple Cabernet.
Downing Family Vineyards has had the opposite experience with its screw- capped Zinfandel.
‘The two words I hear a lot from customers are brighter and fresher,’ when referring to the screw-cap wine, says general manager Stuart Winkelman. ‘I go out of my way to buy screw-cap wines; they have a brightness about them that is really captivating.’” *
So…friend or foe? The jury is still out on long-term storage. However, if you live alone and don’t plan on guzzling an entire bottle in one sitting or of you don’t intend to cellar your wines, screw caps are, as Mr. Spock would say, “Logical.”
*Full article here: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2003/05/22/WI256617.DTL
More info here: http://www.screwcapinitiative.com/normal.asp?navID=24&pageID=24
Auld lang wine: When California and Claiborne were young…
Came across a yellowed collection of gourmet commentary from the late great Craig Claiborne, one of the pioneer foodies of the New York Times. He started a newsletter in 1972 advising his readers on restaurants, recipes and wine. Our first food and wine blogger?
“Can American wines compare with those of European vineyards?” he asked in December 37 years ago. Yes, and Claiborne allowed there was even California wine in his home. To reject all California wine was “acute snobbism.”
The more intriguing comments I dusted off were more specific:
“Some of the best mass-produced wine in America are Alamden, Christian Brothers, Paul Masson and Inglenook. The wines of smaller production and with a certain elegance are Beaulieu Vineyards, Louis Martini, Wente Brothers, Robert Mondavi and Sonoma Vineyards. Even smaller and excellent are Ridge Vineyards and Hanzell.”
2007 Louis Martini Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon ($11.99) 92WN & 90WS
Not all of those labels are quite so proud now or in the same families, but they got us started – not so very long ago.
And they can still make great wine. The lush 2005 Mondavi Reserve Cab ($79.99) and BV’s 2005 Georges de Latour ($59.99) were among the standout big cabs of this years tasting. A major rebuilding campaign has Wente making news again, the 2006 Pinot Noir from Arroyo Seco is fine affordable Pinot. Louis Martini is especially worth remembering for Cabernet at all price points from $11.99 Sonoma Cab up to the 2005 Mike Martini Select ($79.99) which is a treasure of tradition worth keeping for decades.
Craig was right on the “little guys” too. Hanzell’s mountaintop Sonoma Chardonnays are among the richest and most long-lasting whites we have. The 2004 and 2005 are still winning 90s and are worth salting away until 2015 ($59.99). And what hath Ridge wrought? The years and the brilliance of Paul Draper are excellent in countless ways from my dear Zinfandel to Santra Cruz Chards. Just in the 2005 vintage B-21 has great lively Zins from York Creek, Lytton, Dry Creek and Ponzo, ($24.99 to $29.99).
That Claiborne was on the right track.
What are you drinking on Christmas?
Well today is Christmas, and all of us elves at B-21 have done our Christmas shopping and have our poisons picked! Here is a list of what we are drinking today! Be sure to comment and let us know what bottles you popped today!
BOB SPRENTALL - “I will be at Momofuku Ko for dinner tomorrow night in NYC. Will report from there!”
- Our sources tell us that Mr. B-21 himself was enjoying a bottle of 2005 Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny on Christmas night.
SHANNON SPRENTALL - “Van winkle bourbons!!!”
Shannon and fam will be sampling a variety of Van winkle bourbons, and a good time is sure to be had by all!
- Old Rip Van Winkle 12 Year Old Special Reserve 90.4° $68.99
- Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye 13yr 95.4° $68.99
- Pappy Van Winkle 15 years old 107° Bourbon $78.99
- Pappy Van Winkle 20 Year Old Reserve 90.4° $135.99
RHETT BEILETTI - Its all Bubbles and Bordeaux for Rhett
- 2002 Agrapart Mineral ($59.99)
- 2002 Guy Charlemagne Mesnillisime ($69.99)
- 2003 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge
STEVE RAYMAN - Steve has picked out a variety of wine including a Top 100 fav for his family festivities.
- Agrapart Terroirs Champagne from Magnum – ($89.99 – 1.5L)
- Roederer Estate Brut ($17.99)
- 1999 Luneau Papin Muscadet L d’or ($19.99)
- 2008 Paul Pernot Bourgogne Blanc ($17.99)
- 2008 Mas Carlot Clairette ($9.99)
- 2007 Giraud Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition ($34.99)
- 2006 Viticcio Chianti Classico Riserva (Top 100 Wine) ($24.99)
SHAWN REYNOLDS - Our Cali Correspondent is keepin’ it classy.
- Flowers Pinot Noir ($39.99)
SUMMER MARTIN - Yo me quedo en España y Chile. I’m staying in Spain and Chile this Christmas (at least for my wine selections) ¡Feliz Navidad!
- 2005 Muga Reserva ($24.99)
- 2005 Sierra Salinas Mira ($16.99)
- 2008 Montes Late Harvest Gewurztraminer 375ml ($19.99)
- (Oh, and my husband is sure to spike our eggnog with some Courvoisier or Remy Martin)
Top 100 Wine: 2006 Mas Doix Salanques
2006 Mas Doix Salanques was #53 on Wine Spectator's Top 100 Wines of 2009 (34.99)
Coming in at #53 is Spain’s 2006 Salanques by Mas Doix. The Doix family has been making wine for 5 generations in Priorat where the vineyards of Mas Doix represent Priorat at its best, with slate soils and very old vines. Salanques is a “mini” Mas Doix and has always been a favorite of mine. It is an awesome blend of of Grenache that will please many of you Rhone Rangers out there. ¡Feliz Navidad!
Check out Wine Spectator’s review:
”A plush texture carries rich flavors of brandied cherry, dark chocolate, cocoa and mountain herbs in this expressive red. The tannins are firm but well-integrated, and the finish is bright and juicy. Drink now through 2014.” 92 Points, The Wine Spectator
Not only does Spectator think its great, but Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate rated it 93 Points. Top 100 Wines are a great way to kickoff the new year. Cheers!
Blogging and Glogging
The holidays give us an excuse to indulge in extra-ordinary ways: including heating wine. In Florida we do make sangria, but northerners and Europeans mulled over cold winter nights, especially Christmas, with a warmer concoction.
Over the years Swedish friends have punched up my holidays with glogg — and schnapps and akvavit and ice cold vodka and …
I had another great batch this year in St. Petersburg made by my pal Annica Keeler, a one-woman Swedish cultural center, who feeds glogg-less expatriates every Christmas. This is her recipe.
B-Blogg Gloggg from Annica Keeler
- 1 btl red wine
- 1/4 bottle vodka
- 1/4 bottle brandy or Cognac
- Half cup whole cloves
- Half cup cinnamon sticks
- 1 half cup sugar or more (to taste)
- A few whole star anise nuts
- Dried bitter-orange peel (to taste)
Mix and heat over low heat until warm and sugar melted.
When cool, keep in a tight bottle for a week for best taste but a day or two works fine too.
Annica says: ”Traditionally this is served with a small spoon of raisins and peeled almonds in the bottom of your glass. Lots of JULE – HUGS from me to you all!”
Stuck on stickies: 375ml of Christmas
Pre-Order the 1927 Alvear Solera Cream Pedro Ximenez Sherry 375ml ($19.99) and 96 pts. by Parker!
Dessert wines, fortified and otherwise, are an ideal holiday gift. Most come in small packages of beautiful gold and they’re perfect fits for stockings. Great to give to party hosts too; they rarely get opened for the crowd and are saved for a special occasion (or two) when the recipients can savor them in peace and joy. Sweet.
Even the snootiest wine lover on your list rarely has many of them, so you may be giving a new treat.
The extra bargain is that stickies, as the Australians call them with honest childishness, often come in half sizes for smaller tastes of far more expensive bottling.
The choices are endless. In California Andrew and Laurel Quadyare the wizards. Essensia Eluzium.
In France, I love the muscats from Southern France. Italy offers Moscatosand sharper Vin Santo. In Spain, I look for wines made from rich Pedro Ximenezgrapes from Jerez, or my favorite Alvear.
Christmas and the drinking is easy: Truffling with Tabbarini
Sweet potatoes and cranberries be gone! The debate over Thanksgiving wines is over. Christmas dinner comes with menu freedom. We can start with food or wine and only requirement is to roll out the good stuff.
To me that’s the best wine I’ve tasted this year, the ripely juicy Sagrantino, found in a small corner of Umbria; a lush black beauty that comes with its own elf. If you met Giampaolo Tabarrini on his visit this year, his merriment is still jingling. Giampaolo brings energy and passion to match the challenge of this unique grape, its blackberries and dark plums so powerful. It’s a secret ingredient in many fine wines that need booster shots. Alone it’s remarkable.
2004 Tabarrini Montefalco Sagrantino Colle Grimaldesco ($39.99)
The 2003 Montefalco Colle alle Machie ($69.99) is richly ready to drink now (a 93 from Steve R). For me the 2004 and 2005 Sagrantino from Colle Grimanldesco, also in Montefalco, are gifts for the cellar, but the 2004 is approachable if you cant’ wait. (Both $39.99, the 2004 gets a 94 from Steve, the 2005 a 92).
The extra fun is food that will match. Rustic and lusty, and my first thoughts are wild boar. Boar are scarce in my neighborhood, but I can get a fine young pig to roast on the grill from Roy Sierra, a Cuban rancher who runs Casa Sierra in Old West Tampa.
The plant life of Umbria has even more flavor, the best olive oil in Italy, the remarkable truffles, fennel, cardoon, sweet onion and more. Even the eggs, lentils, potatoes and pasta are renowned. So I think roast pork with fennel and cardoons, pasta with truffles and eggs, and fire roasted beans and Sagrantino!
Buon natale, Giampaolo!
What about you? The roast beef of old England and a fine claret? Ratatouille and an old white Burgundy? Rack of lamb and a bottle of Grange? Chrstmas goose and an Auslese?
Melted chocolate shalt never smite thine hands again…
Chocovine ($10.99)
Wine and chocolate. Chocolate and wine. It reads like a Sex and the City dream sequence. Thanks to the folks at DeKuyper you will no longer be over-encumbered by your addictions; from this day forward, one hand is free to work a remote, bid on eBay, or doodle on a misty window. Choco Vine is the new liger of the wine industry…Gunther Gebel-Williams be damned. In the 80s Bartles and Jaymes added passion fruit and father Guido Sarducci to wine. De Kuyper’s latest venture introduces dark chocolate and wooden clogs.
Prior to tasting I decided to do a little investigating. De Kuyper espouses that it employs “a fine French Cabernet” in the manufacture of Choco Vine, but French Cabernet is tantamount to the Florida skunk ape or the Loch Ness monster; it simply does not exist. Another issue, and I may just be nitpicking at this point, but their website provides a number of Choco Vine-based concoctions, one of which calls for Expresso[sic] vodka. Somebody wake their editor up, stat. “Expresso” sits right up there in my pet peeves with “axing” someone a question or W speaking of “NOOcular” proliferation.
So how does it taste? Steve and I ventured into a bottle this morning. It looks more like Yoo Hoo than Godiva or Cabernet. I shook it up per the instructions. We poured a little into some nice stemware and swirled it around. Steve points out that it smells like Kahlua. I take a sip and swish it. Amazingly, it tastes good. Huh? It actually tastes good. Mind you, it tastes nothing like wine. BUT, it’s velvety and rich, sweet and delicious. Steve brought Debbie, our cashier manager, to the back for a nip. She enjoyed it so much that she took a bottle home after work. Moreover, chocolate and wine are both rich in antioxidants and Choco Vine is gluten free. At 14% alcohol by volume it’s on par with many red wines, so you still get some bang for your buck. I must stress that this is not for strict wine drinkers, it’s for chocolate lovers. But what it does it does extremely well.
Pick up a bottle as a gift for your mom, sister, aunt, grandmother…in two weeks she’ll call you up and ask you where you got it.
No-fear shopping for wine gifts
Price and budgets are nothing to be ashamed about. Wine has been a business for a millennia so there’s no need to whisper dollar amounts. Be upfront about how much you want to spend whether it’s for a friend or for yourself. It saves time and a good wine store has stock in all price ranges. We’ve got really good wines for $10 and killer wines for $100. At B-21, sharp wine staff won’t pull a bait and switch, or sneer and try to push you off your budget. Some things don’t exist, such as true Champagne for $15, but enjoyable bubbly for that price does. Just ask. (On that one, I’d say Domaine Chandon Rose at $15.99, or if you want la belle France on the label, Francois Montand is delicious at $$9.99) My advice when shopping:
Can't decide? Get a gift card!
1) Once you’ve figured a price, give some thought to what the recipients like, or wines you’ve had with them. Please don’t say, “These people like really good wine, I don’t know what kind, but really, really good.” Think about them a little. If you know they like Italian wines, Pinot Noir or California Chardonnay, let’s start there.
2) Forget guessing their taste. Give a bottle you like and include a card or a recipe, “We had this in Napa with a great all-vegetable dinner.”
3) If you’re really stumped go for a dessert wine or bubbles
4) Don’t buy to impress a showoff. That’s a battle you can’t win. Give a corkscrew – or a wine stopper.
“Put a cork in it, Joe.”
(When all else fails, go with a gift card and they can pick it out themselves!)