New pinot star Guarachi
Best California Pinot Noir for my money was the debut vintage of Guarachi Family. Lots of red and black fruits and spice, remarkably rich and so big (14.8%) it benefits from decanting. (94WS, $49.99)
Although the Guarachi name seems new, you’ve probably sampled Alex Guarachi’s taste before. For 25 years, his TGIC firm has imported boatloads of top labels from Argentina and Chile: Achaval Ferrer, Montes, Kaiken, Norton, Pascual Toso and Santa Ema. All the while, he’s dreamed of starting his own winery, top-dollar wines from the most select appellations. He now has three, a Sonoma Mountain Chard, a Napa Cab and this killer Pinot from Crown Gap in Sonoma Coast. But then maybe you know the consulting winemaker, Paul Hobbs, world class in both Americas.
P.S. The vintners of all the Latin labels that Guarachi imports will be in Tampa Bay next month. Look for them to do a great tasting in Tarpon on Sunday, October 24th.
On the Oregon Trail: Pinots, ho!
Oregon partisans have long said their state would be the home of great American pinot noir; many of those I tasted made the case well.
I‘ve watched Rex Hill for more than a decade and early on some vintages were more promise than delivery. Not the 2007 Willamette Valley, quite rich and round at a reasonable price for a Northwest pinot ($21.99).
The 2008’s were almost universally convincing. Owen Roe’s The Kilmore boasted “old vines” (in Oregon that may mean voting age) but I can’t argue about the grapes and juice. Peppery and as smooth as old leather, promoted on its Pommard similarity (93 WS, $41.99). I found Adelsheim’s Elizabeth Reserve even richer with berries and a touch of cigar box (92 WS, $49.99).
Ken Wright’s impressive line of vineyard-designated pinots was the sweepstakes winner. What a family, each attractive and quirky: peppery and peachy Canary Hill, the polished structure of Freedom Hill, dark and stony McCrone, and my favorite, the Carter vineyard, musky yet big round, and smooth, quite a mouthful (all $44.99).
P.S. If you want a full tour of Ken Wright’s Willamette, we have 2008’s from four other pinot vineyards. A delicious education.
Hat Night with La Cana Albariño
We found ourselves back at Ceviche for hat night where we celebrated our new favorite Albariño now September’s White wine of the month. Don’t mind Bob he forgot his hat :(
“La Cana’s just bottled 2009 Albarino reveals the excellence of the vintage in Rias Baixas. Light gold-colored with an unusually fragrant nose of mineral, lemon zest, and spring flowers that jumps from the glass, on the palate it exhibits a creamy texture, vibrant acidity, and a lengthy, refreshing finish. Drink it over the next 3 years.”
90 Points, The Wine Advocate
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Drink like Cyrano at peasant prices.
‘08 Chateau Monestier La Tour Blanc (Bergerac) $8.99
This luscious Gascon white will fill a musketeer’s nose with tropical fruit, then refresh with a round clean taste that beats the heat. Shrimp-ly perfect. Nothing sharp. Sauvignon blanc and semillion just east of Bordeaux at half the price. 89 Points, Chris Sherman, The Blogging Nibbler
2007 Domaine Bertrand-Berge Cuvee Ancestrale (Fitou)
With an average vine age of 40 yrs, this Fitou wine, made from roughly equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Carignan is a stunning value. Intense and vigorous initially, the minerality and tannins take 45 minutes or so to integrate themselves into the ripe and sappy and yet remarkably straight-laced Burgundian styled framework. A very pure, seamless and elegant wine.
92 Points, Rhett Beiletti
Staff Selection, September 2010
2007 Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma)
From the rugged and rocky hills and valleys of Sonoma’s warmest reaches comes Rodney Strong’s 2007 Sonoma Cabernet. With a bouquet of smoldering red candy and fresh herbs, this vintage shows amazing texture and complexity for a Cab at such a reasonable price point. Tart, deep red fruits – Craisins, black cherries, currants and pomegranate – dominate the palate while subtle oak offers excellent balance without overpowering. Tannins are present, but don’t storm in, making this wine very ready-to-drink, but also quite agreeable to short-term cellaring. Juicy and approachable with copious amounts of fruit, this is another example from California’s lauded 2007 that will neither damage your wallet nor compel you to bruise any guest who fails to finish his glass.
90+ Points, Shawn Reynolds
Staff Selection, September 2010
2007 Vietti Nebbiolo Perbacco (Piedmont)
Barolo from one of the masters in a great vintage for only $22! True it’s not labeled Barolo but this 100% Nebbiolo is in fact from 10 different Barolo vineyards and the creation of one of the greats, Luca Currado at Vietti Winery. Vietti’s very high standards and key vineyard holdings make this wine possible. Antonio Galloni says it “offers up generous fruit along with menthol, spices and hard candy, … Round, suave tannins add to the long and refined finish. This is a wonderful vintage for Perbacco.” And scores it 90+ points. It should drink well for 10 years. Grab 6 bottles while it’s still available.
91 Points, Steve Rayman
Staff Selection, September 2010
2007 Santa Ema Merlot Reserve (Maipo Valley, Chile)
My brother visited Chile in August and emailed me a picture from his dinner table in Santiago one evening. Of course, it was a bottle of Santa Ema! Practically a household name in Chile, and the United States now. For kicks I opened a bottle of the Santa Ema too, since the new vintage had arrived and well, why not? To think that two people could taste the same wine in two different countries and share it via email is pretty cool. The color of it was a deep violet and it smelled of a bowl of cherries, a caffé Americano and a chocolate biscotti. The flavors shifted to blackberry with touches of vanilla, very smooth and easy to drink… no matter where you are!
88+ Points, Summer Martin
Staff Selection, September 2010
2009 Porcupine Ridge Syrah (South Africa).
An unbelievable value from South Africa’s Franschhoek Valley made by new-wave winemaker Marc Kent. It shares much in common with the Syrah-based wines of the northern Rhone, especially the rustic and dark-fruited crozes hermitage. It offers a deep ruby color, aromas of ripe berry fleshiness, violets, hints of black pepper, spice and cloves (SDR favs). The velvety texture and rustic tannins make it a great wine to enjoy solo or with most red meat dishes.
90 Points, Shannon Sprentall
Staff Selection, September 2010
2006 D’Arenberg Galvo Garage Cabernet Sauvignon (McLaren Vale, Australia
No room for shiraz here, Chester Osborn is playing the garagist game mixing and matching Boredeaux varietals like the indy vintners of France. He too works in a galvanized shed and goes further in artisan production, hand and foot, crushing the grapes by feet before a gentle basket press. Osborn puts together four of the classic five grapes into a lush and lively drink. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot carry the bulk of the cherry and chocolate flavors. Cab Franc and Petite Verdot add a bouquet of flowers and spice and a spicy punch at the end, all in the fine-grained tannin structure you get in Dead Arm and Footbolt. A great Cabernet for Shiraz drinkers — and right bank Bordeaux lovers. Get thick steaks or chops and have a red-ribbon day.










